Ericeira: a haven for surfers and non-surfers alike

Praia dos Pescadores in Ericeira

Ericeira started out by being a hidden gem for some lucky in the surfer’s community. Today, non-surfers find themselves visiting Ericeira too: this is due to the many restaurants, cafés, stores and activities that anyone can enjoy (not just surfers).

You might want to know why you should choose Ericeira as your next destination. Below, I have written why the town is a great place to visit, furthermore, I also give tips on where to eat, stay and do when visiting! I also give tips on where to rent surf gear and where to surf.

Praia da Baleia in Ericeira

Why visit Ericeira?

The fishing town of Ericeira is a popular destination due to its proximity to Lisbon. By car, it takes less than an hour to drive from Lisbon or the Lisbon airport. Moreover, Ericeira can be reached by regular buses from the center of Lisbon: more on this below.

It’s no secret that Ericeira is on the coast, and therefore has plenty of beaches to spend your days on: whether to surf or just work on your tan there are many options. Praia dos Pescadores is even in the harbor of the town: just a 2-min walk from the main square. Apart from the beaches, an advantage of being on the coast is the abundance of restaurants serving fresh fish and seafood, making it also inexpensive compared to other places in the world.

Surfing, while obvious, should also be mentioned. There is a reason why Ericeira has been known by foreign surfers for many years: it offers among the best waves in Europe. Ericeira has both sand and rock beaches, offering different kind of waves. During the fall and winter, the waves grow in size and become challenging and fun for more experienced surfers. Being a surfer’s haven it has plenty of stores, schools and coaches to accommodate for people wanting to try surfing during their trip.

If you like seafood then Ericeira is a great for you with its restaurants grilling fresh fish caught in the surrounding sea

How to get to Ericeira from Lisbon?

There are two ways I would recommend in case you don’t have a car:

  • If you are two or more people, getting an Uber is not expensive if you share the price of the trip
  • The buses 200, 207, 208 and 209 from Sete Rios takes you all the way to Ericeira, and they go 5 to 6 times per hour depending on the day and time of year.
 

The buses you should take are either “express” (45 min) going straight to Ericeira, otherwise the other buses pass through the towns and make more stops along the way (you can count between 1 and 1.5 hours). The price is €5 Lisbon-Ericeira last time I took it.

Click here for the timetable for the buses

It should take about 45 min from Lisbon to go to Ericeira. However, like shown in the image there can be traffic
View over the beach Praia São Sebastião on the northern coast of Ericeira

Where to Surf in Ericeira?

As mentioned above, there are both rock and sand beaches. Below are some of the most popular beaches to surf located close to Ericeira.

  • Praia da Ribeira d’Ilhas
  • Praia do Matadouro
  • Praia São Sebastião
  • Praia da Foz do Lizandro

 

Where to rent surfboards and wetsuits in Ericeira?

Ericeira has plenty of surf shops and coaches so it is impossible to not find a class to join or a board to rent. Below are some of the most recommended places to rent surf gear. Price-wise the shops usually settle on similar prices that fluctuate according to the season:

  • 58 Surf Shop
  • Magic Quiver
  • Activity Surf Center
Aerial view of the hotel Vila Galé in Ericeira and its pools

Where to stay in Ericeira?

Cheap accommodation in Ericeira:

  • Hostel & Surf Camp 55: a hostel with also the option to have a private room. They also offer surf classes: they give u the gear and pick you up at the hotel
  • GiG Capsule Hostel: I have never tried it, but it has the cheapest beds in Ericeira. Also, their breakfast looks pretty good!

My favorite places to stay in Ericeira:

  • WOT Hotel: Not the cheapest accommodation in Ericeira, however I loved that they had desks in the room with reliable Wi-Fi. Moreover, the decor and beds were very good. Breakfast however, leaves much to be desired.
  • WOT Lodge: a more modest option than the hotel is a smaller house with private rooms (no breakfast). However, the rooms are also very nicely decorated.

Best hotel in Ericeira:

  • Vila Galé: a luxurious 5-star hotel chain in Portugal. This hotel is located literally on the sea, with a pool. 
Inside of a dorm at the GiG Hostel in Ericeira
A room at the WOT hotel in Ericeira: comes with AC, Wifi and a desk, perfect for people working remotely

Where to eat in Ericeira?

My favorite places to have lunch/dinner:

  • Costa Fria: modern take on Portuguese and local food.
  • La Popular Taberna: serves tapas-like food.
  • Mar d’Areia: traditional Portuguese seafood
  • Bocca: delicious romana pizzas

My favorite places to have a coffee or brunch:

  • Balagan: café with a view over the sea. Serves bowls and other healthy dishes. 
  • Hurley Surf Club: Savory snacks and sweet treats.
  • Magic Quiver: Surf shop with a small cozy café, great spot for a coffee break.
Costa Fria has great dishes: on the picture is shown their scallops, grilled pork with pita bread and a grilled aubergine mixed with pomegranate and other good things!
The terrace of Pão da Vila on the main square of Ericeira is always busy and a great place to stop for a coffee and a slice of cake

Top cheap places to eat in Ericeira:

  • Pão da Vila: a traditional Portuguese café (in three different places in Ericeira) with all the pastries you can think of as well as comfort food like soup, stews, fries etc. Doesn’t get cheaper than here!
  • O Farol: a small modest restaurant that allows you to choose your fish and have it grilled in front of you on the terrace. €10 per person
  • O Gafanhoto: traditional Portuguese food at an affordable price. It has more options and variety compared to O Farol
Grilled octopus from O Gafanhoto
View from outside of the pizzeria Bocca, best pizzas in Ericeira by far. The owners are italians themselves

Best bars in Ericeira?

Many businesses have opened in Ericeira, and bars are no exceptions. Below are my top picks to have a drink and party:

  • Ippolite Masciste: natural wine bar
  • Mar Las Latas: wine & food
  • Discoteca Ouriço: nightclub
 

Apart from the places mentioned above, Ericeira has a wide choice of different bars: it’s a matter of preference what you prefer. However, look for the Disco club Ouriço (“Ouriço” meaning sea urchin), they have events sometimes and sets up a stage on the street and have a live DJ playing to the sunset.

Ippolite Masciste has a wide selection of natural wines
The outside of Ouriço: the facade changes since they often renew the street art painted on its walls. But the large sea urchin atop the door is always present and cant be missed!

What to do (except surf) in Ericeira?

As mentioned above, Ericeira is close to Lisbon so should you have some days with bad weather for surfing or are just curious to see something else, Lisbon is just a bus ride away.

Apart from Lisbon, Ericeira is close to the town of Mafra which is larger than Ericeira. Here you can find everything you might need. They also have a palace that can be visited as well as a nice park. The bus to Lisbon from Ericeira usually makes a stop here during the journey.

Something different that I can recommend is to do a hike from Mafra to Ericeira. I have done it twice and started in Mafra and walked down to the valley while following the river all the way to the delta at Foz do Lizandro. Make sure to bring water in that case as it can get hot during the summer. Highly recommended!

 

The palace of Mafra was built as a convent, today it is used by the military. However, it can still be visited
Hiking from the palace in Mafra to Foz do Lizandro can take 2,5 hours. There are different routes but walking in the valley across the farmland is what I suggest to enjoy fully the experience.

To sum up

If you want to travel to Portugal but don’t want to stay in Lisbon the entire time, Ericeira is a great choice: not only for surfing but for also for sunbathing and visiting. The amount of bars and restaurants will keep you also happy in the evenings as well as the cafés after a morning session of surfing.

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